Here’s how the words on the selfie sign at a restaurant in the city of Balige made me both laugh and feel a bit disheartened. Balige is the capital of Toba Regency in North Sumatra, situated right on the shores of Lake Toba, the largest lake in Indonesia and the largest volcanic lake in the world. How could they put up a sign with such an unconfident tone?
I might be biased, especially since Balige is the hometown of my late father’s clan, and I’ve visited it often since childhood. Balige can’t be compared to Bali because they are two completely different “species.” That’s why my visit to Balige in mid-December 2023 had me excited to see how it’s developed.
Ever since the Indonesian government designated Lake Toba as one of the 10 Priority Destinations, the impact has been significant. Silangit Airport (DTB), just a half-hour drive away, has made it much easier for tourists and locals alike, eliminating the need for a six-hour drive from Medan. I was almost moved to tears when I landed at Silangit! The airport, now served by four airlines, is quite impressive!
The city of Balige itself hasn’t changed much, just busier. The Balige Market remains iconic with its traditional Batak houses lined up. Mi Gomak and Horbo Milk (buffalo milk) are still sold at the same stalls and taste as delicious as ever. Partungkoan Coffee Shop across the street has become even more popular since President Jokowi had coffee there—his photo is, of course, on display! Every night, food stalls and carts line the main street. Luckily, I came during durian season, with prices starting at just Rp 10,000!
What surprised me was the number of new cafés and restaurants, and there’s even a KFC! The restaurants are modern, with attractive exteriors and interiors, and they serve halal food. Some of them are located right on the shores of Lake Toba, offering beautiful lake views—one of which had that funny, yet sad, sign. Impressively, there’s even a fusion restaurant combining Andaliman (a spice unique to Batak cuisine) with pizza and coffee.
Nowadays, there are many hotel options in Balige. There’s even a four-star hotel called Labersa (short for “Lapan Bersaudara,” pronounced with a Batak accent), the tallest building in Balige! Since it’s a new hotel, there are many hotel rules posted on the walls, from instructions on how to use the key card in the elevator, to prohibitions against cooking in the room, and even a ban on crossing to the next room via the balcony! Haha! The hotel facilities include a cool Water Park with various slides. The ticket price for the public is Rp 60,000, but guests swim in t-shirts and sweatpants! Hehe!
Since becoming a Priority Destination, Balige’s tourist spots have certainly increased. The most amazing are the viewpoints overlooking Lake Toba from above, such as Huta Ginjang, Sipinsur, and Tarabunga Hill. The views are absolutely spectacular! Even my niece commented, “Wow! It’s like Switzerland!”
I took a boat from Balige to Onan Runggu on Samosir Island. Oh my, the views were truly spectacular! The vast, calm blue lake surrounded by green hills and waterfalls really did look like Switzerland! Lake Toba from the Balige side is still as beautiful and pristine as I remember from my childhood, even clean with no litter! Apparently, this is because the traditional lands are still preserved, so there hasn’t been any crazy development. This contrasts with the Parapat side of Lake Toba, which is designated as the main tourism center.
Unfortunately, the Batak Museum at TB Silalahi Center, which I’m proud of, is now less well-maintained. The paint on the walls is peeling, making the building look blackened. Luckily, at the back, there are traditional Batak houses where visitors can learn to dance the Tortor accompanied by Si Gale Gale (a wooden puppet that can dance). There’s also a large joglo where the late TB Silalahi is buried.
One significant development in Balige is the presence of national boarding schools founded by prominent Toba figures, such as SMA Negeri 2 by TB Silalahi and SMA Unggul Del by Luhut Binsar Pandjaitan. While Hotman Paris Hutapea doesn’t have a school, he does own a hotel in Balige!
In terms of service standards, Balige isn’t quite there yet. Maybe it’s a cultural difference, as Batak people tend to speak harshly first. Haha! For example, I had booked a restaurant for a group and already paid a deposit, but when we arrived, the tables weren’t set up at all—they were a mess. I asked the supervisor, “Sis, why aren’t the tables set up? It’s already 7 PM.”
“We can’t! We can’t set up round tables!” she responded loudly.
“Huh? Who asked for round tables? Just combine these three tables!”
Apparently, she thought we were going to have a meeting where people sit in a circle (round, according to her) like in a conference room. Hahaha!
Balige doesn’t have a mall yet, but there are Indomaret and Alfamart, which are always crowded with locals, though the lines at the cashier can be frustrating. Since not many people pay by debit or credit card, the EDC machine is only connected to the internet when requested. You can imagine how long that takes! Once, my debit card didn’t go through, so the cashier asked for cash. When I checked the app, the money had already been charged! Of course, I complained, but the resolution took a long time because the EDC machine had no paper, and the supervisor forgot the password! Ugh!
What about my father’s village? I hardly recognized the entrance because it’s now crowded with housing. Only my grandmother’s traditional wooden stilt house remains—it’s now occupied by my cousin, while the others are modern brick houses. The family rice fields have been covered with housing, but beyond them, the fields still stretch out wide. They say rice harvests have decreased because the government’s program requires continuous rice planting without the traditional practice of alternating with legumes. Meanwhile, our family cemetery remains the same; it’s perched on a hill overlooking the beautiful Lake Toba.
While enjoying delicious Naniura (Batak-style sashimi) made from fish caught in the pond next to my grandmother’s house, my eyes welled up. I wonder how long Balige will remain as beautiful as it has been in my memories since childhood.
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