Huh? Where’s that? Isn’t there a war going on?
The country of Bosnia and Herzegovina (yes, the name has two parts and even uses the word “and”) is located on the Balkan Peninsula in Southeastern Europe, though it’s actually more in the east. The war there ended a long time ago—over 20 years ago, in fact. If you still remember the Bosnian War, it means you’re probably as old as I am.
The history of this country is quite fascinating. For example, they have three presidents! Maybe one day, I’ll write about it in this blog. But for now, let me give you an overview of its amazing tourist destinations and a one-week itinerary.
Sarajevo
Sarajevo (pronounced: Sarayevo) is the capital of Bosnia & Herzegovina. Head straight to its old town, starting from Bašcaršija, which was built in the 15th century. Along the way, you’ll find restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops, and handsome Bosnian men. It’s definitely the place to see and be seen. Uniquely, within a small area, you’ll find a mosque, a Catholic church, an Orthodox church, and a synagogue all close to each other. Don’t forget to visit Vijecnica (City Hall), known for its stunning architecture and interiors. Inside, you’ll find the Sarajevo City Museum. Just 100 meters away is the Latin Bridge, the site of Franz Ferdinand’s assassination, which triggered World War I.
One of the proudest moments is visiting the Istiqlal Mosque. The name is indeed the same as the one in Jakarta because this mosque in Sarajevo was a gift from Indonesia to the people of Bosnia in 2001 as a symbol of solidarity and friendship between the two nations.
For a view of Sarajevo from above, take the cable car up to Trebevic, which is 1,627 meters high. When I was there in April 2019, it was still covered in snow. Walking to the Pino Nature Hotel for lunch was a bit challenging because the ice was super slippery. If you want to experience Bosnian nightlife (most Bosnians are Muslim and don’t drink alcohol), just drop by any shisha bar. The music is loud, but no one dances; they just sit, puffing on shisha while bobbing their heads.
Travnik
This former capital of Bosnia from 1699 to 1850 is just 1.5 hours from Sarajevo. The town is full of historical Ottoman-era buildings, such as houses, mosques, and a clock tower. Be sure to climb up to the fortress on the hilltop for a stunning view of the medieval town. As a writer, the highlight for me was visiting the house of Ivo Andric. He was a Yugoslav writer who won the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1961. His birthplace in Travnik has been turned into a memorial museum that showcases his life and works.
Jajce
On your way from Travnik to Bihac, make a stop at the town of Jajce, nestled between mountains. Its 22-meter waterfall, with emerald-green water and a backdrop of Bosnian houses, is simply stunning! Not far from there are the Mlincici water mills, built during the Austro-Hungarian era (1867-1918). These wooden houses use the river’s flow to power grain mills. Don’t forget to enjoy a coffee by Pliva Lake, with its blue water and snow-capped mountains in the background. Absolutely beautiful!
Bihac
From Jajce, have lunch at Etno Village Cardaklije, a 19th-century traditional Bosnian village complex set amid fields and forests. The food is traditional Bosnian cuisine, made with natural ingredients from its own farm, like bread, meat, and cheese. The traditional alcoholic drink Rakija, made from plums or pears, is a must-try with an alcohol content of 40-50%. Delicious!
A half-hour drive from there, you must visit Una National Park, located on the Croatian border. The dirt road leading in already treats you to stunning views along the blue river! Head straight to Štrbacki buk—a majestic, tiered 25-meter waterfall. Gorgeous!
In Bihac, stay at Hotel Opal Exclusive, which is located right on the banks of the blue Una River. All the rooms have balconies facing this beautiful river. Make an effort to wake up early to catch the magical sunrise. Another option is Hotel Natura Art, located in Una National Park. The building is designed in a traditional style, but what will really leave you speechless is the vast property right by the blue river, surrounded by forests—perfect for relaxing! You can also swim in the river or go white water rafting.
Banja Luka
The capital of the Republic of Srpska, which is predominantly Serbian, is also quite beautiful. The blue Vrbas River runs through the city, with many locals fishing and sunbathing by its clean waters. Have lunch at the Kazamat restaurant inside Kastel Fortress while enjoying views of the city. Oh, and don’t forget to try Teletina ispod saca—traditional slow-cooked veal under a hot metal lid. Absolutely delicious!
Then take a walk around the Old Town, visiting places like Saint Bonaventure Cathedral, the Orthodox Church of Christ the Saviour, Banski Dvor (Governor’s Palace), and the Ferhat Pasha Mosque. The most interesting place is the Museum of the Republic of Srpska, which covers history from the Stone Age to the Bosnian War. But the most chilling part is the horror display about the Ustaše concentration camps, dubbed the “Auschwitz of the Balkans” because of the hundreds of thousands of victims who were gruesomely killed, such as being sawed in half or boiled alive! I felt nauseous as soon as I left the exhibit!
Mostar
The most popular tourist city is Mostar, the administrative center of Herzegovina. It takes about 2 hours to drive from Sarajevo. The scenery along the way is incredibly beautiful, with turquoise rivers and layered mountains. The city itself is charming, centered around the iconic Stari Most bridge, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
About an hour’s drive south of Mostar, you must visit the Kravice Waterfall. The wide waterfall is stunning, with bluish water! For Catholics, Medugorje, not far from the waterfall, is a must-visit. This is where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to six local children. It’s no wonder that Medugorje is now the third most visited religious site in Europe, after Lourdes in France and Fatima in Portugal.
Still in the area, stop by Pocitelj. This 15th-century town, set on the slopes of a karst hill by the Naretva River, is incredibly beautiful. Then, have lunch in Blagaj, specifically at the Etno House restaurant by the Buna River. The trout here is top-notch! A visit to Blagaj Tekke—a 600-year-old Sufi house located beneath a cliff by the blue river—is a must.