Morning Exploration in Bagan: A Journey through the Land of Pagodas
Early in the morning after waking up, I immediately searched for a bike rental. The Bagan adventure continues! Conveniently, there was a bike rental shop right next to the hostel. In Bagan, there are two types of bikes available: e-bikes powered by electricity, resembling scooters, and regular pedal bikes. The latter is more affordable, costing just one US dollar per day. I opted for the pedal bike—a chance to squeeze in some exercise.
I set off from the hostel at 9 a.m., equipped with provisions for the day, as I planned to spend the entire day exploring Bagan. The route to Old Bagan from the hostel was straightforward—just follow the main road, Lanmada 3 Road. It’s nearly impossible to get lost since the road runs straight. Along the way, both sides of the road were lined with pagodas of various sizes, from small to towering structures, earning Bagan its nickname, the “City of a Thousand Pagodas.”
The sight of these pagodas scattered across the landscape evoked a mystical atmosphere, compelling me to visit each one. After about 30 minutes of cycling, I was drawn to a large pagoda visible from afar—the Gu Byauk Nge Temple. Constructed from red bricks, it exuded a rustic charm. Inside, I found only a statue of Buddha. After a brief exploration, I resumed my journey.
However, as I prepared to ride my bike again, the lock refused to open. After several futile attempts, I suspected the rental shop had given me the wrong key. Just as I began to worry about being stranded, a local family on a motorbike stopped to help. They demonstrated the correct technique to unlock it—a small but memorable moment of kindness. Grateful, I continued my trip.
Exploring Iconic Pagodas
Next, I visited Htilominlo Temple and Khaymingha, which are located close to each other. Htilominlo Temple, built in 1218, stands majestically at 46 meters tall, crowned with multiple stupas at its peak. Khaymingha, while smaller, is equally captivating. Both sites were bustling with tourists, and souvenir stalls lined the area. At Htilominlo, members of the Karen tribe, known for their long necks adorned with brass rings, were selling handwoven fabrics and bags. I purchased a few keychains and a bag, which came in handy for carrying my provisions.
As I neared Old Bagan, the density of pagodas increased, along with the number of tourists and eateries. I followed the crowd and discovered the renowned Ananda Temple and the nearby Ananda Oak Kyaung. Close to these sites is the Bagan Traditional Market, making the area lively and vibrant. Built in 1105, Ananda Temple is larger and more impressive than Htilominlo, with expansive courtyards that are popular photography spots. Visitors can even climb to its peak, though it was under renovation during my visit.
After spending considerable time exploring Ananda Temple, I resumed my journey toward Old Bagan. The entry point to this historic area is marked by the Tharabar Gate, an imposing structure flanked by ancient walls. Inside Old Bagan, I visited the ShweguGyi Phaya and Thandaw Gya Pagoda, both of which were bustling with visitors. A sudden downpour forced me to take shelter, but the rain was brief, and I continued my exploration.
Mystical Encounters and Sunset Views
My journey next led me to Thatbyinnyu Temple, a hauntingly beautiful structure that appeared even more enigmatic under the cloudy sky. Surrounded by smaller pagodas, the atmosphere felt otherworldly. From here, I pedaled toward the famous Shwesandaw Pagoda, known as a prime spot for sunrise and sunset views. The path to Shwesandaw was an adventure in itself, winding through dirt roads and small forests.
Upon arrival, Shwesandaw appeared less grand than I had envisioned, with peeling paint and signs of neglect. However, its main draw is the panoramic view of Bagan’s sprawling pagodas from its summit. Climbing the steep and narrow stairs was nerve-wracking, especially for those afraid of heights. At the top, the view was breathtaking—a 360-degree vista of Bagan’s mystical landscape.
Just as I began to revel in the scenery, another downpour began. With no shelter available, I descended cautiously and waited under a nearby tree. Once the rain subsided, I climbed back up, hoping to catch the sunset. Unfortunately, the overcast sky dashed my hopes, and I decided to move on.
An Unexpected Discovery
As dusk fell, I found myself lost after following a dirt path in search of another pagoda. Eventually, I stumbled upon Dhammayangyi Pagoda, a massive structure surrounded by walls with a single entrance. Inside, its dimly lit chambers exuded an air of mystery, with the faint scent of bat droppings lingering in the air—a common feature in many of Bagan’s ancient temples.
Ending the Journey
With evening approaching and a return trip to Yangon on my schedule, I began my journey back to the hostel. Light rain accompanied me as I cycled along a secondary road parallel to the main one. The soft hues of twilight added a touch of melancholy to my farewell to Bagan.
As the sun set, so too did my Bagan adventure come to an end—a day filled with breathtaking sights, kind strangers, and unforgettable moments.