Jammu & Kashmir is a state located in the northernmost part of India. Due to its proximity to the Himalayas, the weather there is relatively cooler, and it even experiences snowfall in winter. Jammu & Kashmir is divided into three regions: Jammu, Kashmir, and Ladakh. Due to religious segregation, Jammu is predominantly Hindu, Kashmir is mostly Muslim, and Ladakh is primarily Buddhist. Interestingly, the state capital is split; Srinagar serves as the capital during the summer, while Jammu takes over in the winter. Imagine the government employees who have to move houses every six months!
We often hear in the news that the area is dangerous and hard to visit due to military occupation. In fact, there was a flood in September 2014 that caused road blockages. Remember Udhi, my classmate from the book #TNT3? She’s from Kashmir and had to flee to Delhi during our studies because her house was burned in religious conflicts. Even though all my Indian friends warned me about the dangers, the Bollywood movie “3 Idiots” set in the region made me even more eager to visit. So, in March 2015, I seized the opportunity.
To make it easier, you can fly directly from Delhi to the capitals: Jammu (capital of Jammu), Srinagar (capital of Kashmir), or Leh (capital of Ladakh). I chose to visit the latter two cities. Although there are roads connecting these cities, snow can block the routes, making travel by road not advisable. If you fly there, be sure to request a window seat on the right side. The view of the Himalayas is absolutely spectacular!
Upon landing in Srinagar and Leh, foreign tourists are required to register by filling out detailed forms, including hotel stay, occupation, and purpose of the visit. I was quite shocked to see so many armed soldiers everywhere, even every 25 meters along the roads! Not to mention the military trucks constantly on the move. Despite the feeling of being in a conflict zone, it’s quite normal due to Jammu & Kashmir’s borders with Pakistan and China, with some areas still disputed. As a tourist, though, I felt perfectly safe.
In Srinagar, I stayed on a houseboat named Meena. This “houseboat” is located on Dal Lake with a view that’s absolutely stunning! Imagine a lake with crystal-clear water that reflects the clouds, surrounded by snow-capped Himalayan peaks and purple almond trees and green pine forests. No wonder Kashmir is called the “mini Switzerland”! Every evening, I would take a shikara (a traditional rowboat) around the lake and relax on the houseboat’s roof, watching the sunset.
Srinagar is famous for its beautiful gardens dating back to the Mughal Empire (15th-18th centuries). I think the Jama Masjid is the most beautiful mosque I’ve seen in India. The unique place is the Hazratbal Mosque, believed to house a hair relic of the Prophet Muhammad. Even more oddly, in Rozabal, there is a grave believed to be that of Jesus! Apparently, this rumor was spread by local vendors to attract tourists to their stalls. Haha! One thing’s for sure, Kashmiri men, who resemble Persians, are very handsome! For those who like fair-skinned, handsome Indian men who are also Muslim, you should visit!
To see the snow, I drove for over an hour to visit Gulmarg. Besides being a ski resort, Gulmarg boasts the world’s second-highest cable car. Located in the Himalayas, it reaches an altitude of 3,979 meters above sea level! Even at the first station, the snow was piled up to the rooftops. The gondola, which has a maximum capacity of 6 people, only had my guide and me. At the first stage to Kongdoori Station (3,080 meters), the power went out three times! It was quite nerve-wracking! The second stage took us to the mountain summit, and I got off. Seeing the snow-covered plains, I immediately made snow angels and took selfies!
Leh itself is situated at an altitude of 3,524 meters above sea level. Upon landing, I was advised to rest for half a day to acclimate and avoid mountain sickness. Wow, the headaches and nausea! In the afternoon, I explored Leh slowly. This small town is set on a brownish sandy terrain reminiscent of a desert. I visited Leh Palace and Shanti Stupa, located on a hilltop. The view of Leh surrounded by snow-capped mountains was spectacular! During winter, the town is relatively quiet as many residents move to warmer places for work. The Ladakhis, who resemble Tibetans, are friendly and pleasant.
Tibetan Buddhist monasteries are scattered throughout Ladakh, including Sankar Gompa, Shey, and Stok Gompa. The most beautiful is Thiksey Monastery, perched at 3,600 meters above sea level with 12 tiers, giving it an appearance of being level with the clouds! The largest monastery is Hemis, located 45 km from Leh. The journey there offers breathtaking views of layered mountains in shades of brown, yellow, and blue, capped with snow, turquoise rivers, hundreds of white stupas, and colorful prayer flags. Monks, mostly young and in red robes, walk in groups. And this surreal scene is accompanied by falling snow… Ah, so beautiful! Truly Incredible India!