Autumn is my favorite season in Japan because the foliage turns vibrant shades of red, brown, and yellow, beautifully complementing the unique architecture. In early November 2023, I visited some stunning spots in the Tohoku region, located in the eastern part of Honshu Island. The best part is that Tohoku is still relatively uncrowded by tourists, so there’s no competition for taking photos or videos. Since I was traveling with Muslim friends, I also discovered several halal-friendly restaurants!
Here’s a halal travel guide organized by prefecture, making it easier for you to plan your itinerary:
Iwate
Morioka, the capital of Iwate Prefecture, was included in the New York Times’ “52 Places to Visit in 2023.” Walking around the city is a delight because it’s small, lush, and has a retro vibe. The route takes you through the Bank of Iwate (a 112-year-old red brick building), Gozakyu (a merchant’s house dating back to 1816), Konya-cho Banya (a 132-year-old blue former fire station), the Nakatsu-gawa River (a clear stream where salmon swim upstream), the Morioka Castle Ruins, Sakurayama Shrine, and the Natural Monument Rock-Splitting Cherry Tree (a cherry tree growing from within a large rock).
One of the most popular tourist sites in Tohoku is Geibikei Gorge in Ichinoseki. While riding a boat, you can admire the spectacular autumn foliage on the 50-meter-high limestone cliffs that flank a clear river filled with large carp. This 90-minute boat trip is rowed by a guide dressed in traditional attire, who not only explains the sights but also sings joyfully. When the boat turns around, you can take a walk through the surrounding forest. The scenery is truly breathtaking!
Recommended Halal-Friendly Restaurants:
Usagi Botanica, Morioka – A vegan restaurant where you should try the vegetable tempura and sesame rice.
Azumaya Honten, Morioka – A must-try for Iwate’s specialty, wanko soba, which are cold noodles dipped in a special sauce (without mirin, so it’s halal) and served in small bowls. I ended up eating 31 bowls!
Bellino Hotel, Ichinoseki – Offers a set menu featuring a variety of seafood sashimi and vegetable sukiyaki.
Miyagi
The perfect depiction of autumn in Japan’s most famous mountains can be found at Naruko-kyo Gorge in Kurikoma Quasi National Park. This 100-meter-deep gorge is crossed by the Ofukasawa Bridge over the flowing Oya River. Surrounded by dense forests with vibrant autumn foliage and occasionally traversed by trains, the scenery is truly stunning!
Autumn trees reflected in the clear waters can be seen in the gardens around Entsuin Temple in Matsushima City. The place is beautiful during the day, but even more stunning at night! From late October to mid-November, from 5:30 PM to 9:00 PM, the gardens are illuminated with special spotlights, making the vibrant colors of the leaves even more dramatic!
A quintessential Japanese experience to try is participating in a green tea (matcha) ceremony at Kanrantei in Matsushima. Here, you will learn the etiquette of tea drinking, following the traditions of Sendai nobility, in a guesthouse overlooking the sea and the surrounding small islands.
Not far from there, visit Godaido Temple. Rebuilt in 1608, this temple is situated on an island connected by a red bridge. After taking plenty of photos, be sure to try the local Matsushima snack, Sasakamayaki (grilled cod fish cakes), available at the shop across the street.
Sendai is the capital of Miyagi Prefecture. To make getting around the city easier, head to Sendai Station and hop on the retro Loople Sendai bus (a hop-on hop-off service). With a one-day ticket costing just 630 yen, you can freely get on and off at all the major tourist sites in Sendai.
I headed straight to Zuihoden Mausoleum, the burial complex of Date Masamune, the founder of Sendai, and his three family members. Rebuilt in 1979, the architecture reflects the 16th-century Momoyama period, featuring vibrant ornaments of birds, trees, and flowers. Uniquely, I was guided by a tour guide dressed in period attire, portraying Date Masamune himself.
The guide then took me to the “home” of Sendai Castle, built in 1601. Most of the buildings were destroyed by fire and war, so only the foundations and the stone walls of the hall have been preserved as they were at that time. Fortunately, located 130 meters above the city, the site offers a stunning view of Sendai and the Pacific Ocean.
For market enthusiasts, a visit to Sendai Asaichi (morning market) is a must. It’s just a 5-minute walk from Sendai Station. The market features 60 stalls selling local products and side dishes from Miyagi Prefecture and Sendai City, giving you a taste of daily life in Sendai. While strolling through the market, be sure to grab a warm croquette!
A must-visit landmark in Sendai is the Sendai Daikannon statue, standing at 100 meters tall, making it the tallest statue in Japan. The statue is white with a pink robe. You can enter the statue and take an elevator up to the 12th floor to enjoy views of Sendai City from the windows and explore the collection of Buddha statues.
Lastly in Sendai, I visited Osaki Hachimangu Shrine, a national treasure established by Date Masamune in 1607. Its beautiful architecture continues to attract many visitors to this day.
Recommended Halal-Friendly Restaurants:
- Shintomitei, Matsushima – This ryokan where I stayed has a restaurant serving kaiseki ryori, including grilled fish and vegetable sukiyaki.
- Yakiniku Tomoji, Sendai – Enjoy halal wagyu beef grilled with yakiniku sauce that is also halal-certified.
- Serenity, Hotel Metropolitan Sendai – A French restaurant offering halal-certified beef steak.
- Itagaki Honten, Sendai – Known for its fruit parfait, but I also enjoyed their vegetarian spaghetti.
Fukushima
Ouchi-juku is a village in Shimogo featuring traditional thatched-roof houses that are over 300 years old. Located in the mountains surrounded by forests with vibrant autumn colors, the village is perfect for strolling and taking photos. My friends even rented kimonos for their photo sessions!
To delve deeper into the culture, I visited Aizu Bukeyashiki, a former samurai residence in Aizu that has been turned into a museum. Walking through the spacious house, including the bedroom, storage areas, kitchen, and tea ceremony room, felt like stepping back in time. The garden, adorned with vibrant red momiji (Japanese maple leaves), added to the serene atmosphere!
The symbol of Aizuwakamatsu City is Tsurugajo Castle, a replica of a 14th-century castle that stands out from a distance due to its white and towering structure. The 228,000 square meter complex features a lush garden with trees displaying vibrant autumn colors.
Back to modern times, visit Aquamarine Fukushima in Iwaki City. This futuristic building houses an aquarium featuring a variety of marine life with an educational focus. The touch pool, spanning 4,500 square meters, is the largest in the world! Proudly, it includes the nearly extinct Indonesian Coelacanth, an ancient fish species from Indonesia.
Before heading back to Tokyo, be sure to buy souvenirs at Iwaki La La Mew, a food theme park specializing in seafood, local products, and tourism information about Iwaki, located near Aquamarine. Their specialties include a variety of peach-based products and delicious octopus crackers!
For more tourist destinations in Fukushima, you can read here.
Restaurant recommendation: Iwaki Halal Restaurant, which is certified halal by Japan’s MUI. I enjoyed the chicken ramen and karaage (Japanese fried chicken).
Guide to Tohoku:
Visa to Japan is free if you have an e-passport, allowing a stay of up to 15 days per visit, valid for 3 years or until your passport expires. Simply register here and show the visa screen at immigration.
The easiest way to reach Tohoku is by flying into Tokyo Haneda or Tokyo Narita airports. From the airport, take a train to Tokyo Station, then transfer to another train to Morioka.
Traveling around Tohoku is most cost-effective with the JR East Pass.
For complete tourism information on Tohoku, visit here.