ONE DAY BEFORE THE TRIP TO MOSTAR
The plan to visit Mostar almost got canceled because of an unpleasant incident at the Dubrovnik bus station. I was denied boarding the bus because my ticket wasn’t printed, even though I had been waiting at the Dubrovnik bus station for an hour. The bus ticket I bought on getbybus.com needed to be printed, and since I was staying at an Airbnb, they didn’t have a printer. The Croatian bus staff were quite difficult, acting superior. They insisted I couldn’t board the bus without a physical ticket. Their bus system isn’t as advanced as Flixbus, where you can just scan a barcode from your email — it’s still manual.
Since I had been in Dubrovnik for a while and was eager to get to Mostar, Bosnia, I had no choice but to search for a place to print my ticket, even though it was almost 5 PM. As expected, all the shops were closed on Sunday, and the bus left without me. Heartbreaking.
According to Silvia, who was meeting me at the Dubrovnik station, the bus officer was arrogant, but another one was more reasonable. He actually tried to persuade the first officer to let me on the bus since I had already bought the ticket. Eventually, the stubborn officer changed his mind. However, by that time, I had already left to look for a place to print. Oh well, since I missed the bus, I had to buy another ticket at the counter for about 14 Euros for the next day’s departure at 8 AM. So, one more night in Dubrovnik… and I swear I won’t buy anything from getbybus.com again.
THE NEXT DAY….
After a 4.5-hour bus journey and passing through the immigration checkpoints of both countries, I arrived at Mostar Bus Station, Bosnia-Herzegovina. My first impression wasn’t very positive, as the station looked old and poorly maintained, with streets full of old shops and a few building ruins riddled with bullet holes and random graffiti. But as soon as I turned towards the old town of Mostar, I instantly wanted to say “wowww”… Mostar looked exactly like the photos on the internet! I am very excited to explore Mostar!
EXPLORING MOSTAR, THE LITTLE TURKEY OF BOSNIA-HERZEGOVINA
Mostar is the fifth-largest city in Bosnia-Herzegovina and the most important city in the Herzegovina region, serving as a cultural and economic hub. In the mid-15th century, Mostar was under the rule of the Ottoman Empire. During this time, Mostar flourished into a bustling trade city known as Kopruhisar. This was also when the iconic Stari Most Bridge was built, connecting the west and east sides of the city. Today, Stari Most is the city’s most visited landmark and a prime example of Islamic architecture in the Balkans.
The Ottomans ruled Mostar for around 400 years. In the 19th century, the Austro-Hungarian Empire took over Bosnia-Herzegovina until Yugoslavia emerged. Bosnia-Herzegovina declared independence in April 1992 after Yugoslavia dissolved. Unfortunately, the fighting didn’t end, and ethnic battles continued, particularly between Bosniaks and Croats, which divided Mostar and destroyed many religious sites, including the Stari Most Bridge. The Croats bombed the bridge in November 1993. After the war ended, Stari Most was rebuilt in 2003. Today, Mostar has grown into a bustling tourist city, with many visitors taking day trips from Dubrovnik, Croatia. The city’s population, consisting of Bosniaks, Croats, and Serbs, now lives in harmony.
Mostar’s main tourist attraction, where Stari Most is located, is the Old Town. Built during the Ottoman period in the 15th and 16th centuries, the Old Town straddles both sides of the Neretva River, which divides the city. There are many traditional Turkish houses, mosques, and Turkish baths (hammams) here. Sadly, many of the buildings were destroyed during the war, but they’ve been rebuilt since.
Walking through Mostar’s Old Town feels like stepping into a Middle Eastern city from the past, rather than a European one. The narrow cobblestone streets are lined with stone houses that have been transformed into craft and clothing shops. Most of them sell Turkish coffee pots and cups, along with ceramic plates and tableware with bright, oriental patterns. There are also pashminas, bags, and Turkish-style carpets. Another shop sells lavender souvenirs. I loved strolling through Mostar while shopping for handmade crafts.
If you’re planning a trip to Dubrovnik or the Balkan region, make sure to add Mostar to your itinerary. I’ve been there and was amazed by the city. Here are some must-see attractions when visiting Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina:
1. Stari Most
This classic bridge is Mostar’s iconic landmark and is often referred to as one of the best examples of Islamic architecture in the Balkans. Stari Most, which means “Old Bridge,” was built in the 15th century during the Ottoman rule. It was constructed over the Neretva River during the reign of Sultan Suleiman by architect Mimar Hayruddin, a student of the famous Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. After being destroyed by the Croats during the Yugoslav war, the bridge was rebuilt in 2003. In 2005, this curved stone bridge was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A popular tourist attraction on Stari Most is watching young local men dive off the bridge into the Neretva River, especially in the summer. Though it seems like a tradition, they do it to entertain tourists, hoping for tips. Usually, one of them will pass around a money bag to the tourists gathered by the bridge.
2. Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque
This mosque, located on a hillside right next to Stari Most, adds to Mostar’s classic landscape, giving it an exotic, ancient Middle Eastern vibe. Built in Ottoman architectural style, the mosque features brownish stone walls, a light blue dome, and a tall, pointed minaret. The entrance fee is 6 Euros, and you must remove your shoes before entering. The mosque’s interior is simple but beautiful, with a white dome adorned with red and blue motifs, along with intricate calligraphy.
One must-do activity when visiting the mosque is climbing the minaret for an amazing view of the Old Town, divided by the Neretva River. It’s breathtaking, almost like the Middle-earth scenery from The Lord of the Rings.
3. Karadoz Bey Mosque
Although Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque is stunning and strategically located on the Neretva’s banks, Karadoz Bey Mosque is actually the largest in Mostar. Built in the 16th century in Ottoman style, it features a large light blue dome and three smaller domes. The 34.5-meter minaret is made of brownish stones. There’s a beautiful pavilion for ablution in the mosque’s courtyard. It’s still an active place of worship and was rebuilt in 2002 after being destroyed during the Bosnian War.
4. Old Town
Exploring Mostar’s Old Town is like stepping back in time. The Turkish-style market sells traditional Turkish crafts, such as tea and coffee sets, ceramic tableware, carpets, and pashminas. Unfortunately, I only brought one medium suitcase for my 7-month trip, so I couldn’t buy much. But I did manage to buy a lavender pillow souvenir (4 Euros). Supposedly, if you place it inside your pillow, it helps you sleep well — and it really does!
Strolling through the Old Town, admiring the ancient architecture, browsing Turkish handicraft stores, and enjoying the turquoise river are highlights of any trip to Mostar.
5. Hammam Museum
The Yugoslav War destroyed many mosques, Orthodox churches, synagogues, and hammams. Today, there’s only one hammam left in Mostar, now functioning as a museum. It has an Ottoman-style blue dome and stone walls. Entrance costs 2 Euros. Inside, you can see a beautiful Turkish bath made of ceramics, along with mirrors and various bath tools used in the 16th century. While it’s no longer a functioning bathhouse, it’s worth visiting to learn about the bathing culture of Mostar’s past.
6. Trying Bosnian Cuisine
No trip to Mostar is complete without sampling its food. Bosnian cuisine is heavily influenced by Turkish flavors, and I was pleasantly surprised by how delicious it was. One restaurant I highly recommend is Sadrvan, located near Stari Most. The outdoor area is decorated like a garden, with fountains and giant Bosnian teapots. The staff wear traditional Bosnian clothing, and the menu offers authentic Bosnian dishes.
I tried japrak (stuffed cabbage with meat and rice), sausage, and Bosnian coffee. Japrak is wrapped in cabbage and served with mashed potatoes, while the sausage dish includes beef stew served with rice. But what really stood out to me was the Bosnian coffee, which is served on a copper tray with three cups. The first cup is for the coffee, the second contains sugar cubes, and the third is a metal ladle-like container with hot coffee. You pour the coffee into the cup and drink it — a unique and delightful experience!
For Muslim travelers, Mostar is very accommodating, as nearly all the food is halal. Other Bosnian dishes worth trying include cevapi, a long kebab made from lamb and beef served with Somun (Bosnian pita bread), raw onions, tomatoes, and cheese.
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