Traveling to Munich, Germany: Fascinated by the English Garden and Beer Culture, but also exposed to racism

Because Munich is located just two hours from Salzburg by bus, I decided to visit this vibrant city in Germany. I’ve long wanted to see Neuschwanstein Castle, but unfortunately, I couldn’t make it there this time. However, I plan to visit it next May during my trip to “conquer” 45 European countries, so it’s on my list! Munich turned out to be far more luxurious than I had expected. It’s much more than just Germany’s most expensive city.

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Using FlixBus, Kyle and I continued our European journey to Germany with a visit to Munich. The two-hour trip from Salzburg went smoothly, with only a brief stop at the Austria-Germany border for a passport check. I can’t recall all the details, but I do remember how incredibly handsome and imposing the German/Austrian border officers were (they looked the same to me). Haha, I admit I have a soft spot for Germans and Austrians (and the French too!). We arrived at Munich Hauptbahnhof around midnight. Munich, or München, was the second German city I visited after Cologne (Köln).

 

After our adventures in Salzburg and a delightful day trip to Hallstatt, we were a bit exhausted upon arriving in Munich. Still, the thought of seeing the city’s stunning architecture and the vast English Garden motivated me to explore Munich the next day. Unfortunately, what could have been a near-perfect experience was marred by a racist encounter at a restaurant. I’ll share more about that at the end of the article.

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Munich is the capital and most populous city in Bavaria, Germany. It’s the third-largest city in Germany after Berlin and Hamburg. Known for being one of Germany’s most prosperous and rapidly growing cities, Munich is home to several international companies, including BMW, Siemens, and Allianz. Beyond being a hub for science and technology, it is also a center of the arts, boasting numerous art museums. The annual Oktoberfest draws many tourists to Munich each year.

 

During World War II, over 50% of Munich was destroyed, with nearly 90% of its historic center in ruins. After the war and the period of American occupation, Munich was rebuilt, including its old town. I was in awe when I visited the old town, which looked as if it had been untouched since the medieval era, even though much of it had been reconstructed after the war. Post-war, Munich experienced an “economic miracle” that led to significant economic growth and a population boom, which now numbers nearly 1.5 million people.

 

Exploring Munich: Getting Around

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Since I stayed at a hostel near the old town, I didn’t need to take the train to get around Munich—I could just walk. However, if you want to explore more areas of the city, I recommend using the train system, as Munich is quite spread out. You can take the S-Bahn or U-Bahn (underground trains). A single ride costs €2.70, but if you plan to take multiple trips in one day, you can save by purchasing a day ticket for €6.70 for the inner zone. Group tickets are even more economical at €12.80 for up to five people.

 

If you fly into Munich, you can take the S8 or S1 train to the city center, as Munich Airport is 36 km from the city. The ticket price is €11.60 for a single trip, while a day pass is €13, and a group pass is €24.30.

 

Things to See & Do in Munich

 

1. Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall)

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The Neues Rathaus in Marienplatz immediately caught my eye when I stepped into the square. It’s a gothic-style building with 400 rooms, and you can climb the tower for a view of Munich and the Alps. Don’t miss the Glockenspiel show at 11 a.m., 12 p.m., and 5 p.m. from March to October. It features 43 bells and 32 figures reenacting scenes from Munich’s history.

 

2. Englischer Garten (English Garden)

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One of the largest urban parks in the world, even bigger than Central Park in New York City. I loved it here more than Central Park! The English Garden was created in 1789, and it’s filled with lakes, fields, and pavilions. It was my favorite spot in Munich—I spent hours relaxing here, enjoying the beautiful autumn leaves, the roaming animals, and people sunbathing by the river. Don’t miss Monopteros, a Greek-style temple, and the Eisbach River, where you can watch people surf. We also enjoyed some beers and traditional German food at one of the beer gardens.

 

3. Marienplatz

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This square in front of the Neues Rathaus is always bustling with locals and tourists. Marienplatz dates back to the 12th century and is a beautiful spot to admire Munich’s architecture.

 

4. Hofbrauhaus

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This iconic beer hall near Marienplatz has been around for centuries and was frequented by Mozart. We enjoyed traditional Bavarian music, beer, and the lively atmosphere here.

 

5. Viktualienmarkt

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Munich’s largest outdoor food market, which started as a farmer’s market, now offers everything from cheese and meat to wine and tea. In the middle of the market, there’s a beer garden too.

 

6. Munich Residenz

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This grand palace was home to Bavarian monarchs and the center of government from 1508 to 1918. It’s a mix of Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical styles and features 130 rooms and 10 courtyards.

 

7. Churches

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The churches in Munich are stunning, and it would be a shame to miss them. My tour began with the Frauenkirche, the city’s tallest building with its iconic green domes. I also visited St. Michael’s Church and Theatine Church, as well as St. Peter’s Church, where you can climb 299 steps for a panoramic view of Munich.

 

8. Art Museums

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For art lovers, Munich’s Kunstareal district is a must-visit, featuring Alte Pinakothek, Neue Pinakothek, and Pinakothek der Moderne.

 

9. BMW Welt & Museum

Located near Olympiapark, BMW Welt is a massive showroom where you can see the latest BMW cars and even buy one! Entry to BMW Welt is free, but there’s a fee for the BMW Museum, which showcases the brand’s history, including cars like Elvis Presley’s.

 

Experiencing Racism in Munich

 

The downside of my trip occurred when Kyle and I were dining separately at different restaurants. I had a bottle of water with me when I joined Kyle at a German restaurant after my meal at a Vietnamese place. The waitress suddenly yelled at me for having an outside drink, but didn’t say anything to Kyle, even though he also had a bottle. It felt like a racist incident since Kyle, who is white, wasn’t treated the same way. This shocking experience made me feel extremely uncomfortable, and I ended up writing a review on TripAdvisor to warn others.

 

Despite this unpleasant moment, I enjoyed much of my time in Munich and would visit again, though hopefully without any similar encounters in the future.

 

Have you ever experienced racism while traveling?

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