More than a decade ago, I heard about a fantastic resort on Sumba Island called Nihiwatu. In 2012, the name was changed to Nihi after it was purchased and renovated by American entrepreneur Chris Burch (by the way, he also owns the Tory Burch fashion brand). Nihi gained even more fame when it was named the Best Hotel in the World by Travel & Leisure in both 2016 and 2017. This was followed by similar accolades from Conde Nast, The Telegraph UK, Tripadvisor, and others.
World celebrities have stayed at Nihi: from David Beckham’s family vacation, Jennifer Lawrence’s honeymoon, to Brody Jenner’s wedding. Recently, during the pandemic, Nihi became a vacation spot for Indonesian celebrities such as Gisel, Luna Maya, and Raffi Ahmad. It’s not about following the trend, but who wouldn’t want to stay at Nihi?
To celebrate my birthday on January 11, 2021, I finally had the chance to stay at Nihi for three nights! I invited my friend Sri to join me so I wouldn’t be lonely in such a gorgeous place.
Nihi is located in Wanokaka, in the western part of Sumba Island, East Nusa Tenggara province. The flight from Bali (DPS) to Tambolaka (TMC) takes about an hour. From TMC, we were picked up in a Nihi jeep for a 1.5-hour drive. Impressively, Nihi staff assisted us right from check-in at Bali airport until we arrived at the hotel! Upon reaching the reception, we were greeted by a “Captain” who would be our point of contact for all our needs during our stay. His name was Simson, a native of Sumba. We exchanged WhatsApp numbers for easy communication (surprisingly, the Wi-Fi was excellent!), and then we were taken on a tour.
Situated on Nihiwatu Beach, which forms a bay surrounded by dense forests, Nihi has 28 Sumba-style villas scattered along the hillside. Each villa is hidden, completely secluded by trees. All the buildings are connected by stone-paved pathways, often covered with a canopy of vines. The architecture is designed so that each villa faces the ocean and the sunset without being blocked by other buildings. Everything is open – socially distant, yet wildly connected, which is very fitting in the pandemic era.
I stayed in a one-bedroom villa named Raja Lamba. The design was rustic, with a thatched roof, plenty of wooden elements, and earthy tones. Everything was made from high-quality natural materials like teak wood, marble floors, and an outdoor bathtub made of copper. The amenities were also very eco-friendly: no single-use plastics, and even the trash bins were lined with banana leaves. The yard was spacious enough to fit a bale-bale (a traditional raised platform) with a soft mattress and, of course, an infinity pool. During the day, I could sunbathe nude without worry, as the villa was so secluded. Each evening, we would relax on the bale-bale, enjoying coffee while watching the sunset.
Three meals a day were included in the package. Breakfast and dinner were served at Ombak Restaurant, perched on the edge of a cliff with spectacular ocean views. Lunch was at Nio Beach Club, right by the beach. The meals were a la carte, with options ranging from Indonesian to Italian, Japanese, and Mexican cuisine. There was also a Menu of the Day that changed daily. Considering its remote location on Sumba, I was impressed by the availability of ingredients, including a variety of cheeses and imported meats. All the staff were native Sumbanese, providing excellent service. The room was stocked with a minibar filled with various drinks, including beer, vodka, whiskey, and gin, as well as handmade organic chocolate from Nihi. The minibar was replenished daily!
If lounging around became boring, there were various free activities to choose from, such as yoga, paddle boarding, and surfing, with equipment available for rent at The Boathouse. There were also paid activities like spa treatments, cooking classes, and traditional weaving workshops. I chose three activities. First, on my birthday, I participated in a Half-Day Spa Safari at Nihioka Spa. You can reach the spa by a 20-minute jeep ride or a 2-hour trek. Again, the location was vast and secluded, with a private beach. I selected three treatments from the extensive menu: the Nihioka Signature Massage, Head Massage, and Facial. The spa was an open-air bale-bale situated on a cliff overlooking the ocean. The therapists were local Sumbanese women. I usually never fall asleep during a massage, but this time, I did because it was so relaxing!
Second, I tried Beach Horse Riding. Sumba is famous for its endemic racehorse, the Sandalwood pony, so this activity was quintessentially Sumba. Nihi has a stable with 17 horses and their caretakers. As the sun was setting, I donned a helmet and boots, and rode a 4-year-old female horse named Bindy, a crossbreed between Sumba and Australian horses. I ride horses fairly often, but this was my first time doing it on a beach and in a bikini! Where else could you do that?
Lastly, I took a tour of The Sumba Foundation because I wanted to learn about Nihi’s CSR programs. This nonprofit organization has been providing clean water, education, healthcare, and economic assistance to the surrounding communities for 20 years, with donations coming from Nihi guests. I visited a clinic that promotes anti-malaria efforts and went to Motodawu Village to provide supplementary food for children. The partnership model between the hotel and NGO to combat poverty has even won global awards from WTTC and PATA.
In conclusion, Nihi is indeed one of the best hotels I’ve ever stayed at! Does it deserve the title of Best Hotel in the World, and is it worth the price? From the perspective of most Indonesians, maybe not, because the luxury is not the typical Indonesian standard. There’s not even a TV. But from the perspective of foreigners from developed countries, Nihi is sexy because it’s truly private amidst unspoiled natural beauty. Privacy is key, and Nihi provides it in a vast area without being disturbed by others.
For me personally, Nihi’s strength lies in its location and romantic ambiance. Imagine, as far as the eye can see, there are no other buildings, only stretches of hilly forests and vast ocean with miles of white sandy beaches. Even the most expensive hotels in Bali can’t offer that. The simplicity of Nihi’s villa design blends seamlessly with nature. What’s more, the food is of fine dining quality and genuinely delicious. Given the premium price, it’s justified by its location and quality, plus it naturally filters the type of guests who stay. Above all, I had the best birthday celebration at Nihi!